Kalamazoo Tenor Guitar
Belly is up, and neck has excessive relief.
No Truss rod, strung GDAE with heavy strings
Will try to reduce it with a Bridge Dr if possible
Another repairman tried to get the action lower by fret dressing
and saddle lowering but it is still too high with the Belly and
Frets are modern
Neck joint is tight. Heel has a crack
Neck will need reset and crack repair.
Hole drilled for hook, will fill that
A couple cracks on one side, will seal those
Back is good
fuzzy pic, but showing 8/32, I need 4 to 5/32 for a nice playable
Zeroed , under tension, checking deflection
With no strings, it did not drop far, meaning the Belly is
still pronounced, and its memory built into the top over time.
I have no desire to re-invent the wheel on this TG so I
will not pull the back and make new bracing but will try to
reduce belly with Bridge Dr.
The Dr. will not go into the center of the small TG bridge with
the size screw it has so I will do something I usually would not
I will make a plate for the underside, and move it forward
of the bridge and drill into the top.
Then after installation put an MOP button there.
Note: after a couple of attempts at
modifying the Dr and making it work, there was not enough gain
to leave it in.
This is due to the reduction of bridge area for it to work with.
So I will be left with an MOP button in an otherwise good top,
for my efforts.
Neck relief begins at the 4 fret to the nut
Frets are newer as stated, but leveled off to almost nothing.
Fingerboard is at 16" radius
Since it needs a carbon fiber truss to keep weight down I will
pull the board, then pull the neck.
The tongue is extremely "Stuck" alot of heat and cajoling.
This is one axe that has not lost its adhesion over time, that
is some strong hide glue.
Still slow going, 2 hours in. Hard to fathom one being that
Heated knives and board doing the work
Once onto the mahogany neck area, its going normal
Did shear some spruce that can be remedied
Pretty clean, a few small areas Ill have to clean off the board
and fill on the neck
I did get some scuffing on the top working that tongue with hot
knives but not enough for touch up finish
Since I cannot reduce the belly, I will compensate by a steeper
But first, get the neck heated out, order the truss and get
the slot prepped.
As you can see, not dealing with a common dove tail so will go
look at some other examples of this heel and get familiar
with the removal process.
Spoke with a pal that knew what I had feared.
Some Kala's have the top put on over the dove tail.
So I will have to slice out that area on the top to get some
This will be hidden under the tongue.
Before I start the cut....
What I am pointing at here, is one of 2 tacks, that were
installed into the fingerboard to hold it centered when they
built the instrument.
A common practice.
This is why many times, it can be a task to get the tongue to
come up when you pull a fingerboard.
These were left extremely long, you do not need that much to use
as centering pins.
That is how looks after the piece was chiseled out, and up to
the front of the dovetail.
The maple strip you can see at an angle would be shim wood that
was used to tighten it up.
And it is TIGHT, there was no glue release on this instrument.
You cannot see the other sides angle, that is tight.
I am heating from the back side and top, with dry heat, no
This will help the neck block stay glued tight is my hope
Came out clean
The only prob with the nylon pads of the new neck jig is that
they dimpled the top because they are not really flat, they
still have machine marks in them and I did not see them.
So when I strip the finish I will swell them with a little water
and block them.
Heel repaired, hardwood dowel goes all the way to under the
Now for a cap
Waiting on carbon fiber rod to show up.
Rod installed with 1 degree back bow.
Using toothpicks, not NAILS, to center up.
1/16 bit, in fret slot, which will hide under the wire.
Rubber banding to begin the clamping process
12 hrs in the clamps
Radius is 16", getting all that back where it needs to be.
Dots in, ready to clean and deepen slots
fret saw will slice the toothpicks nicely
Pre bent Stainless wire
Once again, shrapnel from nipping the ends got me deep.
Stainless is hard to cut and the end cut comes off with great
I will have a better method on the next wire!
Starting to re-vitalize the board as I go up the neck.
Leveled crowned polished, also no fun on Stainless.
I have a full roll of it to use up, I'll be dead and gone before
Shot a base coat and fade, and a coat of clear on the neck for
Starting to work the neck fit, I will deduce the heel which will
change the angle to what I need for this body's requirement.
MORE TO FOLLOW