WORKPAGE
1-18
Kay Kraft
"Recording King"

J
umbo Body
4.75"x 15" lower bout
4.25"x10.25" upper bout
(at the neck and end blocks)
Maple back and sides, Spruce top, Mahogany neck
X braced
12 frets to the body
25.5" scale
Replacement bridge-ebony

Neck has excessive relief-correct with carbon fiber rod
Full refinish
 
 









Heel is tight, relief is in weak neck












Online  Image-Kay-Kraft Guitars
Center Guitar
Same inlay pattern
Same pick guard profile
Same Bridge Profile


Online  Image-Kay-Kraft Guitar



Same pick guard profile
Same Bridge Profile
Same basic color scheme

Here is what the owner said
Excerpt

Both the Oahu and Kay Kraft jumbos were made by Kay. Their body shape, though very similar, is slightly different from that of the Gibson Nick Lucas. There's a little bit more curve to the lower bout of the Kay-made instruments, for example. And of course, the Kay Kraft/Oahu guitars have significantly longer scales. These x-braced Kay Kraft/Oahu jumbos are consistently excellent guitars! In fact, I just bought another one myself!
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/theunofficialmartinguitarforum/kay-kraft-nick-lucas-clone-t143895.html


REPAIRS


Fret removal
Tape will impede chip outs at the slot


Binding removal


Heating the extension loose


And on up the neck




Some steam, and a little vinegar to get th hide glue joint loose


All off in good order


Waiting on carbon rods


This is a very thin neck, no room in it for an adjustable rod.
The carbon fiber will be light and strong, and thin enough to be able to rout cavities in this example.







Installing rod and then after bedding it, a mahogany overlay.
LMI  Polyvinyl Yellow  assembly glue



12 hr clamp, with weight to pull on the neck into the relief I want





About a 2 degrees of back bow, that will spring back to flat, and then as always is hoped, a good neck that will pull with proper relief.


Out of the clamps and profiled


Board and laminate scored, ready for glue after I cut rod excess.


Poor pic, showing where I drilled two bamboo pins to locate the board while gluing.


Rubber banding it down


Another 12 hour cure time.


Fingerboard radius, compound 9.5 to 16" Slots deepened, Nitro binding
Thin oil coat on the top before I fret


Side markers, 3/32"


Board wooled and polished, ready for wire


Pre Bent Chrome alloy wire



All in sealed, ends dressed, another oiling, buffing and waxing


Just a quick look on the body



Cutting the heel angle

Body Finish
Chem Stripped, Honey Amber/Black fade


First edge coat, you can see its darker from this angle
 



 


 
Will move on to the sides next.





Now the top...after tint and first clear coat, bridge taped off.
Leaving some patina, sanding this top would require a bridge removal, and then excessive wood removal to remove pick damage.
So my intent was to blend back in the color, make a stick-on pick guard, not elevated like original, but same shape.
This will cover the screw holes, and the pick attack area.
It will be thin tortoise.
Mahogany neck, with tint and clear applied
In the next clear coat I will add a tiny bit of honey amber to the mix, to give the neck bindings  and sound hole binding a head start on yellowing.




Just a look at it with neck slipped in, to see where I am at before I get back to clear coats.

Next to Dan's B&D Groton 1, also taking on final lacquer

FINAL PICS


Neck set is good
There still is some "Bellying" by the bridge under tension.
This means I will add in what is called a "Bridge Doctor"
It will give me the ability to flatten the belly and enhance tone at the same time.
I will order one from Stew -mac.





















Adding  the "Bridge Dr."

Watch Dan Erlewine use one in this You Tube
Better than me explaining it

https://youtu.be/nxJpM4xoXg0





















Its got to be good, it's from Roswell!
Reverse engineered alien tech is the best. :)

Action is  now 4/32 at the 12,  the top is flat and it plays well up and down the board.
Now to get some strums in it to open it back up.

Thanks for looking
Beam me up Scotty...
Vinnie