17 fret extended, elevated fingerboard
Repair as needed
Change dowel angle, to correct high action
Repair neck from improper side marker installation
Fingerboard loose, neck has relief 1-3
Pull all inlay, pull fingerboard, seal all laminates
Re-install inlay (Worn gravings)
The dowel should dip to a 1 degree downward angle, and the
flat heel must be angled as well.
These were made to have high actions so that when skin heads
sagged in humid climes, you could still have the strings off
That still works if you want an authentic sound when banging
out a rhythm on a skin head.
Many players had to work HARD, to play single string on old
setups if they did not adjust an instrument to do low action
After pulling binding I can see that was all that was holding
down the lower half of the board.
This is all loose, free, and will be sealed
Frets out, ready to heat and pull inlay
Inlay out, this is how far up the fingerboard was loose.
I will heat the rest off
Sawing it free where laminate goes under peghead
Came free pretty clean, that is just pear wood dust
The maple extension is thin, will repair the chippy tip.
Since the side markers ruined these laminates, I will order a
new maple and I have the ebony
Heating out the dowel
Ready to seal center laminate and extension
Will fill those marker drill outs with amber #20
Pushing apart the center to get glue into it all the way up, I
can wiggle the blade and see it is loose all the way to
OK, its full now, ready to piece in some laminate and clamp
Wax paper under the tip, making the repair with amber #20, the
wax will release when dry
Will smooth it, good to go
Surface prepped for new laminates
Ready to pull heel cap, and reduce heel angle
Add engraved flanges
Created and engraved by Steve Caddick
Raw brass, polished, and prepped for Nikolas Lacquer
3 thin coatsfor protection from oxidation.
This product is what Trumpets and Saxophones are coated with.
Also getting some on the new brass plated steel hook sets
All the large parts were cleaned and coated as well.
Planet tuners lubed, and MOP buttons polished and waxed.
If you run MOP buttons, clean them, and you will have a high
Now to find the proper resonator
No easy task, but I am committed!
More neck work
Repaired the edge of the lamionations where the rhinestone
pockets gouged it.
I plan a darker finish than original anyway, to make the ghold
pop, so many of these little defects will be hidden under the
Board pinned in position. glued on, banded tight for 12 hrs
Clamping the tongue with the vise
Popped off the front overlay, it was as loose as the rest.
Since it has a very thin binding and none of it left to show
topside, I will enhance that
Here I am wicking #10 in the Pear Wood (Not Ebony)
"Ebonized" I think was the catalog term.
None is going on the inlay, just around it
Now to dye it all black again, and fill the gravings with
So thin you cansee the wood, making it look green
Mixing a bone color acrylic and I will razor cut the inside
One side done with a shot of clear to show a before/after view
Will do the other side when that dries
Stripped neck, brushed out all carving residue, time to pull
One tap, its off
And as on the top side, more need of glue and clamping
This baby was dried out to the max!
OK, a shot of the color and clear to give me a look
Carving too dark, will back that out and go again
All maple was scraped clean to show the lines well.
Stripping back, leaving some in the Bas Relief
Will change heel angle 1 degree now
Ready to set dowel, add black to the heel cap lines.
Dowel cured and angle reset
Checking the fit, then back off to adjust
Tip of heel cap removed to get the angle. You will pop off the
cap if you pressure up on it.
That is the clearance needed under tension
Back off, tint adjusted, ready to bind
I will not use 3 pieces, I will use 1 and hear/bend around the
Binding profiled .
Markers added, head stock overlay re-installed
One more fit check and then prep for inlay / frets
neck angle good now, ready to go
Prepped for 147 Stewmac wire, cavities will be cleaned for
All ready to re-set, back out final prep
Adding black for the lines
Some are worn, we will see whats left.
At least most will have decent color
Going one at a time, then after three, I will fret a few,
keeps me from getting bored with repetition.
All inlay / frets installed
Board oiled, ready to level fretwork.
Since I can only add 2 -3 coats of finish per
day,with wet sanding between I have moved on to the setup.
I can be done with that by the time its Nitro time
again so I will do all this, then pull it back down for
First, new bridge for the new neck
27/32, 3 footed, ebony insert, normal spacing, extra long.
I like to exponentially lengthen bridges when I get over
A standard bridge, or a nice custom one like Steve Caddicks
here, work well for me until I start getting into bigger
rims and then I always want a wider stance.
Setup is GDAE, Bronze wound
GHS Strings and REMO head furnished by Bedford Banjo Shop
Instrument is playing well up and down, easy
to note, nice full tone
Replaced MOP nut with bone
4/32 action at 17
I especially liked the fact the head has
"Enoch" written on it, since I have been studying the
Biblical Enoch for the past 3 months.
OK, good to go, ready to take back down, and
finish the finish.
I will search the world for a pie section resonator
for this big boy now that I am this far along.
I will use one I have here on another banjo, 2 piece back,
to show how it looks and I can hear how it will sound.
I have sourced a Pie Section in excellent condition, with
a tight grain Maple (Deluxe grade) and a perfect dome
From a unit in stock, that will now become an open back.
Sometimes I just have to dig thru what I have, to remember what
It will get an edge fade to match the neck, and
the sidewall will be dark
MORE TO FOLLOW