For sale after repairs
Neck has high action, requires neck set
Bridge is loose, needs reset
Finish is old and compromised, will re-finish
Star on head stock correct for the model.
These and some other Guitars, Mandolas, Mandolins and the
Crescent Tenor banjo had raised stars
Re-set Neck to gain angle
Check all bracing
Install carbon fiber truss
Heated the extension loose.
Coming up the neck
Board off OK
Super odd neck joint, no dovetail, but perfectly tight
The crack is easily sealed with back off
The finish is an early single stage Urethane, and gummy to
everything stripper so straight acetone and rag changes is the
How it looks half off, that old muddy finish is sad.
You cannot see the larger crack in the first pics because
acetone has wood soaked, and it is swollen shut, that will
change in a few minutes back to an open crack
Finish off the top is progressing
Some old screws are embedded , I will drill to the tops and
Heating and popping the back off
Nice removal, minimal damage.
One sliver pulled off the neck block, I will re-attach
One tiny sliver pulled on front, a very clean removal all and
Bridge off, starting the block sanding
Pick guard is inset, will not be removed,
old world style.
I have carefully removed the old finish and it is
back to celluloid, it will be wet sanded and buffed to high
All smoothed up, ready to seal
Wiped clear over all the bare wood to seal it while it sets
until I get back on it
All wiped down with a lacquer rag, I am a proponent of a sealed
It will open back up and be less sensitive to humidity changes
I have a few tiny cracks in the spruce to cleat, nothing major
on the top
That was just not enough neck block for the tension, in my
A lot to do in that area
Fixed the top of the neck block where the sliver pulled
It is a very tight well made joint, but did not hold up to this
amount of string tension.
Maybe it is some sort of old world classical guitar joint, I
will have to steam it apart now to see.
Frank Ford has seen this joint before, here is a blog on it
At least I was not the only one scratching my head.
Its not going to be fun.
Back is cleaned up and ready to stabilize with a few cleats here
All and all, VG cond to work with
Keeping things pressed while I research this neck block and how
I can overcome its design weaknesses.
Back all cleated up and ready for re-assembly
a few in the top, good to go
I have drilled 3/32" holes in the top seam, over the neck block
thru the body and into the front side of the neck block.
I will inject vinegar into the holes and allow it to break
down the hide glue in the joint
As it takes on liquid, I am working the neck gently in all
Also, I razor knifed the sides of the heel to break loose any
finish that would impede the removal.
After an hour, I got some movement and I have my blade in the
No dovetail, just a wedge into the neck block that never came
The emulsified hide glue will all be wiped out, heat gun to dry
it all swiftly.
Then those holes will all be filled, and smoothed
Same on the heel, get it clean and dry.
You can see my drill lines, as well as a tiny bit that would not
All and all, an excellent outcome
Fixing up the joints for re-assembly
I do not plan to over think this
I will add screws from the inside and build a wedge to get the
desired neck angle.
This is a good angle.
Easy to see the change from the original neck set
Forming the angle for the wedge
After filling the neck block irrigation holes.
The screw is holding me in place for the neck set check
There will be 2 permanent screws and glue when I re-assemble
I want a rigid no movement finish.
Ready to fret/tint/seal
Star has a threaded post
Ser# is 37385
On top of peghead, 2 digits one side, 3 on the other, common for
Re-blacking the Pear wood overlay
Stripped and scuffed to 320
Tinted and sealed
Stew mac #147 wire
Neck angle changed, neck glued back into the body.
Bridge installed, was clamped and screwed down to seal
(Clamps off here), new bridge plate installed
The back will go on next.
Back installation pics lost, it went normally
After measuring out where I needed to be, I needed to add height
to the original bridge base.
The rosewood billet was sized, slotted and drilled, glued and
pinned into position and then I contoured the edges.
Frets leveled and polished, thats all completed
After a quick setup, I am where I need be, with good action and
plenty of saddle.
I will lower the action from here, to around 5/32
Now to pull the hardware, tape off and get the tint/finish
I am going with a pumpkin tinted top, to get back to the
original look of patina
2 more coats, and then I will buff it out, pick guard will
shine again as well.
4 coats Mohawk Classic Instrument Lacquer
Tinted binding to regain patina
Brought to satin with fine wool
Buffed to medium shine
Action adjusted- low, and could possible go lower.
As I stated before, I do not wish to add coatings just to get a
This instrument had less finish put on it from the
factory, than I put back on it.
If someone has to have that, it will be additional cost.
My goal was for it to go to a good player at an
Someone that is not super picky about every single finish
nuance, going for mechanics first!
Plays well up and down with good action and good volume
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