1920s Orpheum Guitar Banjo
Regain proper neck
angle for correct
fret neck with 147
Stew Mas wire.
Fill divots in
Rim will be left as is
neck set is low, heel is
flush with rim
Slight lift under no tension
Heat press and compression fret should help, along with light
Trussing is not cost
effective on this model.
Action needs to drop
from 1/4 to 5/32 over the 24 fret
Additional washer and
long ferrule to make up some space
Dowel was nicely cut for
Taped off for wire extraction
Neck needs to rise 1/8"
to help clear the arch
Common issue on these,
the play better with some elevation
Taped off for fret removal.
Pear wood is a recipe for disaster without proper prep work.
it is not really wood anymore, it will break away and powder
out if you are not on your A game.
This is why.
The tape holds on to the breakouts.
You pull slowly, looking for this.
Then you shoot in some #10 and let the tape's 'memory" push it
right back down.
hit with accelerant and check again to be sure its down.
Over....and over......and over.
You flow in the glue and hit with accelerant each time,
press quickly on all the slot edges and then look for any
more chip outs
Cleaning as I go, I will take these divots out with minor
leveling which will also help this already warped forward
Keeping the slots clean of glue, after sealing slot edges
A nice splice in the binding that was hid by dye, and will be
All leveled up
First coat of dye
Starting over the heel with 147 wire.
Thin #10 sealing them into the board as I go.
The dry pear wood drinks it in, and this will stabilize it for
many years to come
Residue will be removed with fine steel wool as I proceed, for
a clean final look.
After heat press.
Compressing with "Jaws" to build some stiffness as best I can
into the neck.
I sliced the fret slots at .020 and the fret tang is barbed
and at .023" so they will push hard.
Also, I sawed the slots deep so that it would kerf the board a
bit and I will fill back under them after compression fretting
with #20 black, making for as stiff a board, as tight a fret
These laminated necks are challenged to hold guitar tuning and
this will help out alot.
Tidying up little breakouts cause by compression fretting,
normal on brittle old Pearwood
Dressing the ends
Starting the leveling
Ends all sealed back up
Noticed how thin finish is on the neck.
Wiped it off with one rag of solvent
Heel cap will need redye, that must have been replaced when
dowel work was done
Adding 3/32 markers
Dye all light wood
Sealer coat, ready to add back the honey amber
Peghead sealed, ready for clear
Amber complete, sealed ,ready for clear and neck elevation
There was never a heel contact prob, the neck just has to
raise up 3/16" for better clearance
roughing out the cut in the tone ring, then I will raise the
tenon hole and make shim wood to go on the underside to make
up the diff.
Checking the fit, good and tight, level.
That is the new elevation
I have built on 020" shim between the tension hoop and neck to
inhibit flex in this area, I like a tight fit to hoop.
Ready to setup
making a new bone nut
Spacing the slots
Correct gauges for guitar banjo
Now with the new action, orig bridge has the strings touching
fingerboard, must have made some progress.
Saga armrest on the bench, made me think if Alan wants an
armrest I could modify the mount to work on this hook spacing.
It would look like this.
Now for a new bridge
I do not like the thick tubby tone the factory gold tone bridge
makes, I like a thinner profile, sharper tone.
Also, this does not need a radius bridge.
11/16 3 footed Maple with ebony insert .
I will cut the base to a "Cant" so that it bites into the head
A common practice on bluegrass bridges
After tensioning up the first time, I hear a few buzzes down
in this area from the treble of neck being with a little
uplift still, so time for creative leveling on those areas
The dusting shows the high spot, now to re-crown and
Playing well up and down, VG clear tone
Easy to see the "Cant" in the bridge base now. This is helping
to get a better bite on the head by the outside feet, always a
prob on GBs because of inherit head sag no matter how tight.
It cannot be gotten around....ever.
Nice action, nice string angle over the bridge.
neck finish was steel wooled to have a stain effect to look
less new, match the rim finish better
After a l;little more settling in, she should be ready to go
home for a try out.
I think for what we started with we got this neck a long way
from where it was and stopped at a point where it was prudent.
Only the player can say, I always hope for the best outcome.
Thanks for watching,Vinnie