Anne A's Paramount Leader
WORKPAGE
11-14
Repair broken peghead
 Restore as needed to play





Neck is Spalted Rosewood, hence its spottiness and Orangish color
 Spalted is a fancy word for "On the way to rotted"
It was already past it's prime (organically) before it was used on this instrument.
But the look is wonderful and  it will work just fine as it did for 80+ years.


If you could buy old growth Spalted Brazilian Rosewood by the board/ feet today, it would cost a Brazilian dollars.


The back and rim veneers are normal Brazilian

Quite a color contrast


The overstated thumbstop is advantageous for this repair, it gives me a button to drill.



Drilled out
I will insert a 1/16 brass tube thru the thumbstop and all the way under the fingerboard


Glued with Titebond II, clamped 12 hours


Now I can put two additional pins on each side of the main pin.
That will be enough "Rebar" to take the String pressure easily.


Anne saved the pieces of the overlay which is a boon, I will section them back in and add filler where needed


You do not come across the "even number" serial numbers very often.
Luck of the draw.


After resetting all the pieces of MOP and wood that was saved, the rest is "fill in" with rosewood dust.
It's packed in tightly
I have some plastic held against the side to dam up the dust and glue




First stage, now a little dust and glue until I get level


After leveling, re-dye with Fiebigs


I will dye again and then one coat of clear.
That will give me a good dark background to get the cavities cut for the remaining inlay that was missing


One "Bell" missing
There is a little "tail" that goes on the Lange Logo, I'll add that and the 2 "dashes" 
The inlay was damaged when Modern tuners were implemented
 A common Malady.


Just did what I could on the bottom of the broken Lange logo, that pearl was pretty damaged there
Now for the 2 dashes



The rim skirt is very tight, I'll have to pull all of the spacers first


Bottom trim is cracked all around, I will seal all cracks then refinish after stripping


Now for the resonator


It is delaminated on the side and is loose on the inside.
I will strip, then glue all the de-lam's and then refinish



Inside done, with new clear



Outside all sealed up nicely, and taking on clear
 
Inlay work completed and peghead overlay refinish complete


I had decided to send in this plating but then my breakers tripped as they always do when I think a project is going too far.
I watch peoples money better than I do my own, so we will first do an agressive machine buffing to see if we can get under it.
Even on heirlooms, I think there should be a cutoff point and I want to try and save Anne some $$
675.00 to be exact.



The large metal came back around nicely, with only minor pitting here and there.





Small hardware is now acceptable, 85 percent of oxidation came off
Most is on the washers, and I flipped the bad ones so out of sight , out of mind.
 Paramount had thick plating as a rule, that is why I tried in the first place.


After the normal harrowing buffing of the thin flange, Im finishing it off with swirl compound.
Looks like the stuff will all pass my muster, so glad.





Absolutely the tightest rim assembly.
There is no way to assemble it with the stanchions in place, they have to go in on at a time, opposing each other
Most you can put them in and slip over the skirt, no way Jose'!


Will re-head with REMO Renaissance
11-1/8 med. crown
Provided by www.bedfordbanjoshop.com



Now to buff up the tuners  and remaining pieces
There was some oxidation on the hooks but many are VG, so I spaced them out and they are fine.
We did good by going the extra mile with the buffer.
The Gibson Style armrest is non orig., but as comfortable as the original "Hot dog"


All snugged up,



Strung to pitch with GHS Strings, tuned DGBE
Strings
,Provided by www.bedfordbanjoshop.com
No bear in mind this instrument came in with the peghead knocked off, there was no way to test its "Frettability"
Now that I have, its not good, I'll try a leveling but the fretwork was done poorly whenever Granddad had someone refret for him
They either did not have the tooling or were just beginning.




Level, recrown, dress ends, try again....




Thumbs down, We must re-fret



Here you can see they dropped the frets in with the ends tapered, and too far inward
I will fret over the binding, get that back and it should fret out.
It takes special tools to fret over the binding, they just didnt have them at the time.



All old wires out, will dress board and use StewMac 147 wire




Compressing from the top down on this one



Sealing the new wires in as I go with thin cyano




Leveling the new wire


Recrowning file, all special tools




End dressing file, 3 functions on one file.
Will steel wool it all smooth and polish the wires



Oiling the board again, it was very dry




Banjo played out nicely with the new frets, we are good to go
Hey, and the peghead hasnt flown off..........yet ! LOL

In my "Stash" I had an original "Paramount" marked bridge
I felt it needed to ride with Grandpa's banjo



There are 2 dots on the head where the bridge must be for proper intonation

If it gets knocked over, I have made a special string lift (Invented by Jim Farquhar)
First, loosen the strings somewhat, you do not want to try and stand it up at full tension.
It  also allows you to change bridges if need be,,, without fully tuning down.
Some people like to try alot of bridges and it helps to not damage bridge tops.


Now in these pics the bridge is already up so if you wanted to take it out, its like this
You stand it up like this and slide under the strings.


Flip it over so it supports the strings




Let the handle rest on the head and pull the bridge, sliding the feet forward
(Remember strings are loosened first)




Just reverse the procedure going back in
 Thanks Jim.



You can see all mine that Jim made for me, I just "Pay it forward"
She is settled in and playing very well with very good tone, I think we have it where we want it, now to finish the back.



All the clear is on, ready to add new felt and the sliding hardware






These are tricky and can come loose over time and the resonators fall off
This one did at some juncture I fixed all the cracks when it was down for finish
When its on, I'll show how I keep them on.
No need to be in there anyway unless work needs doing.



I blew out the case and pulled the old tape, stuck on some new tape, its good enough to protect the instrument
Not original to the banjo, so no need to go too far.
I will say, as I always say, the only thing these Yellow cases lack is a dimmer switch :)


Cloth, String lift and Pick
Final pics coming








You can see the repairs here, no need to mask them, its a battle scar.
Like the filled holes around the tuners where the original tuner holes once were.




OK, shes all packed up in a box and ready to go home
I hope Grandpa would smile at my efforts, and it was fun to challenge myself once again with "The headless horseman" scenario!
Thanks for watching,
Vinnie

More to come