Epiphone Concert Tenor
Restore as needed
Normal wear on board for a played instrument
Normal celluloid shrinkage
Recommend new frets, seal celluloid blocks, new binding, detail
Overlay intact and grungy, recommend thorough cleaning and wax
Replacement tuners with MOP buttons
Original tuners appear to have been Grover Hercules by the
Tailpiece 100 percent functional
A couple replacement hooks/ nuts, I will try to match the
Melted finish from some reaction with tuner body, will try and
clean that up
This is normal "Cupping" for Multi-laminate necks , they
pull inwards over time.
It does not affect playability.
The main flange is very stuck, I have been moving it some with a
sand mallet, it will need some heat to expand it enough to come
First I want to take the old Varnish off of the backside
Here you can see where I have began to block sand with 320, I
have gotten past it in the center and am working to the edges.
It is about 3 mils thick.
I know its Varnish, it has a sickly smell when sanded.
Celluloid smells like Camphor when you get down to it.
It is used in the making of celluloid.
The water begins to get less and less yellowed as I get closer
to the bottom
It is always thick at the thumbstop, Ill get that last.
is where I go to consecutively finer grit up to 1500 then
I can live with that, that is just a little machine buffing to
show its look.
Frets out, you can see they are all bar wire, no barbs for
Basically pull out with your fingernails.
I have begun to do the wetsand but will only go deep enough to
remove some Yellowed Varnish without getting into the original
detail paint which is VG
A light buffing, will final buff after all else is done.
A good gain and a nice luster again
You can see on the edge after binding removal, the lifting of
the blocks along the length.
These all have to be heated, glued and clamped, time consuming.
Installing new binding
Dots installed, fingerboard cleaned and machine buffed
Ready to seal
Complete strip, loose laminates sealed
Ready to level crown and polish frets, then detail paint the
board before final finish
Fret dressing wheel
End dressing file
Taped off for finish.
With celluloid's, I like to shoot a coat wait a minute, pull
After 1 hr ,Re tape for the next shot.
This keeps solvents in the lacquer from mating to the celluloid.
Back to the rim...
OK, nothing like baking a rim and flange at 200F in the oven to
get some expansion, flange came on off fine at around 160F
You can see they never added finish to the bottom lip, that is
where the stain rode up from the rim trim on the bottom
Speaking of which, sealing cracks, only in one area, normal,
some are much worse.
Since it will run a clear head, I am cleaning the topside of
grunge and with brush on some fresh finish to make it look good.
Black looks good too.
Taped to shoot inside, that outside gets no more than it had,
flange has to go back on.
next to another Epi, owned by another Bruce.ah the irony.
I have this one for repair, both have the same issues, O'Neil's
is worse. (left-dusty_
Upper laminate splitting
some veneers pulling loose, concentric rings lifting, all normal
for me to see on these models
I cannot "unshrink celluloid or rehydrate it in any way, no one
can so we just seal it down and do some detail work to make it
At least its not as bad as
Neck taking on clear coats.
Nice and bright again
Brushing on a coat to the top of rim for a little gleam
I am satisfied with the cleanliness of the brass flange and skirt after fine wool polishing so I
will only polish and wax the main hardware.
After cleaning and polish
I like using a hard wax after that and my quick way is Cut Rite
Wax paper, for baking.
It is a good paraffin coating and easy to work around the
Thank you REMO, for the 1015th 1015 stamp I'll have to
remove with alcohol.
Even now that they have the ability to laser it on the side of
the bead now, these will probably never stop showing up!
You can see that I have the head pulled with nickel plated hooks
and the reason is as follows
I started running into trouble with originals so these are on to
pull the head to tension and then i will swap one at a time for
This helps them not pull the tips and some are already
What causes the problem:
wears in one area and that area gets rounded and the hooks
start pulling away so over time they are tensioned over and
over and straighten out the "hook tip" and then they
want to slide off under tension.
You can see a new hook how it wraps into the seam . When they
are bad they look more like an "L" than a "J" on top.
After a long time digging in old boxes , I have a few to
work with, this will save us.
All back on, lucked out
All to tension
The 5 hooks on top are the ones that are the worst and I
replaced them, the others (and the L hooks) will ride home for
Now for the armrest, it will get polish and brass lacquer, first
a light machine buff
It will wear off over time like plating would.
It can be reapplied with ease, unlike plating
The bends and dents cant be helped, patina.
It is an etching lacquer, old formula like is used on Trumpets
I will go 6 coats, it is super thin and flows like water.
And the tuners will get it as well, and the MOP buttons will
dazzle after 70 yrs of scum is removed
They were installed with crude bushings all of which will be
discarded and a brass insert used instead.
The original tuners had 3/8 holes
Just a pic of how celluloid can cup just about anything when it
Adding the detail back with acrylic enamel
Even on the blocks that have engraving wear, I can still form
2 more coats of clear on the Rosewood and it will be ready to
Cleaning the tuner bodies, and feeding what oil I can down both
posts, it does help.
I will clean and then machine buff the buttons
Coming up with tubing that will help the 9/32 shaft Planet's
stable in the 3/8 holes.
Buttons and tuners looking good again
Ready to string up and set under tension, settle in, while I
finish the resonator
Clamping off the small areas between the concentric' s.
Feeding in thin #10 cyano, it is sucking it in like a sponge,
and it will wick to places no other glue can reach.
Scraping off residue and high spots in the celluloid
150-320-400- for now is the wet sanding sequence.
The yellowish color is varnish, as you see this slurry change
colors it is getting close to the original celluloid.
Nothing inside the concentric's with these grits
Outside to the inside of the second concentric is sealed
and back to 400 grit sanding marks.
All sealed. now it is 600-800-1200, then machine buff after I
repair the sidewall
Ready to pull together and glue up
Glue and clamps loose, glue in, ready to tighten and let set 8
Back out of clamps, will do the one fresh black coat inside now
Scraped to profile, much tighter. It cannot be made invisible,
none of them can.
After buffing the back
Now to scrape the top marquetry, and add clear only to the
Marquetry strips, then buff the sidewall.
Sealing the marquetry only.
Same lacquer, brush on 3 coats top and side as well as bottom
side and hand polish when dry
Well, I have carried it as far as I feel prudent, I am sure
Bruce will check it out and do some personal touches unless I am
very lucky and he is 100 percent happy.
Exceptionally clear and powerful tone, that clear head is
Playing well up and down the register.
It has been fun working on yet another great Epiphone, they are
some of the real heavy hitters from the Golden Age.
Now, for a safe trip home to the Great White North.
Thanks for watching,