Dan G's
B &D

Restore as per customer instructions
Make playable-Refinish


Regal likely borrowed the body shape used by Gibson for their KG-11 model to build this lovely guitar. This model was meant to compete with the Kalamazoo and related lines. Regal sold these guitars under their own label, as well as re-branded them for other guitar makers. I have only seen a handful of these guitars survive, especially in good condition.

The guitar measures 38 1/2 inches long, 10 inches across the upper bout, and 15 inches across the lower bout and 4 inches deep at the end pin.
  This is a great blues box, with a strong ladder-braced sound, and made as a Spanish model, not a square neck.

The nut is 1 3/4 inches wide and the scale is 24 3/4 inches.
Spruce top, mahogany back and sides.


Extension loose from heating, and neck steaming complete
Pick guard was not gassed out, and pulled easily, will re-use it

Steam needle was used for the process.
Minimum steam was needed

Will flatten curvature after board removal
Neck is Poplar

No damage to dovetail our pocket in steaming

Bridge what was left, was part of the orig and part of an archtop bridge, and someone had added a trapeze tailpiece in its life.
We will go with a new O/S Rosewood bridge

Some holes and gouges to fill

Someone had already added a steel bar, but did not level neck before install, so they built the bow back into it basically
I am leveling the wood and metal, which cut at different rates to get back to level

Now to add an 010" mahogany veneer to make the diff and give me something to get a nice bond with

Hit with a scraper, checked for flatness. happy with it

Checking the fit, there is still a heel angle change to do, but later


Only a little bad area from old bridge will show, I will make all the low areas flat with #20 CA, in amber

Holes align perfectly

Trapeze holes will be filled

Scraping all components for best glue bond

Wax paper, #20 amber, with accelerant sprayed onto it, and pulled flat

A little block sanding and I'm flat

Metal caul under bridge plate for support

After the center is tight, the ears are push with the other 2 press blocks

Excess wiped, cure time, 24 hrs
Back to neck for a while...

Time to clean board, and leave time capsule

All scraped for glue

As is the veneer

All nice and flat and ready for glue

Getting the top coats on, starting with clear

One brace came loose when I was removing my rag, it must have been hanging by a thread.
I will level it and clean the inside, glue it back up.

Warming up the Old Brown
I like it about 140F, and the body about 90F

3 wedges, holding it down

Medium brown for the fade base color.

We were trying for a less pronounced fade, warmer look
Mocked up with the pins and saddle, bridge with 1st 2 coats of oil and pick guard hole repaired, and buffed to high shine

Fingerboard installed and clamped off.

If I see any problems with stiffness, I will go with this neck instead :)

Neck out of clamps, profiling the edges

Removed the rest of the frets, cleaned the board top with the radius block.
I will get the neck angle checked and fitted  before any real leveling will be done

A coat of clear on the Poplar for now

Heel cap is gassed out, will replace with same but new material.

ready to shape

Cleaned and machine buffed overlay

Working the angle on the heel before glue application

Good fit back down to the body and clamped

Nice even squeeze, lets keep our fingers crossed!
Now for some fingerboard  level/ radius work


Bringing the radius to a real 14"now that I have it glued down, and the extension glued to the body
I will offer an opinion here.
I do not think this is a Brazilian Rosewood board, I think it is Indian
It has a brownish look in the shavings and no nice fragrance as is usually smelt when working Brazilian


I time compressed this procedure,showing the tools used
Fender acoustic fret wire sealed in with #10 Stew-mac
Fret slots cut to depth for modern wire
Compression fretting to the extension, and hand pressed to the end.
Frets were radius leveled which went well, very encouraging.
Board is being oiled and steel wooled

After end dressing, more oil and wool, frets polished with special wheel

After that, it was taken back to the machine buff.
Board was burnished, wire polished to high shine.
The cleaned, oiled a final time for now, and wiped with soft cloth.
That completes the fretwork.
I plan to work the setup next and let it settle in some, get all that working.
It is when you hope all of your "guess work" can come to a happy ending!
And then, will pull it back down and "Finish the finish"

OK 1 string on that is all I need to know, and right where I'd hoped to be.
This is a universal bridge and made oversized so you can match your needs
All I need to do is take off about 1/8", sand smooth and re-oil, then cut saddle to match.
So lets get to it.

The "Sure form", will make quick work of the overburden.
Then I will block sand it smooth

Cutting the angle back in the peg holes

Prepping the top for final coats
Saddle completed and will string it up once more to check the work before going to final finish coats.