VG original banjo
Looking at color differences on another original BD
And one I an currently refinishing
The color of the Burl rules the outcome each time and you have to
do what you can on matching the colors.
No concentric bindings on this resonator as well, that must have
only been used at certain times ,I've seen it on 3's before.
mute has extra lock nuts
You cannot fake patina like that
Grover Deluxe with engraving, all working well
A few chips here and there on the tuner buttons
Getting everything ready to head to Nashville plating service
A smorgasbord of Bacon!
board is taped off so that no breakage occurs, fretboard is very
dry
All out OK
This is why you use tape.
If you do have a loose chip, it sticks to the tape and the tape
gives it "memory" so you can put down some glue and place it right back
into the divot and allow it to dry
Fretting with Stew Mac 147 wire
Under the dark finish is some nice flamed maple
I will not dye this as dark as the old color so that the wood shows
thru.
It's sealed and ready for dye.
Stripping the Varnish
Nice and thick, it will take 2 strippings.
It takes alot of finish on Birdseye, even with sealer
Stripping complete
Wonderful birdseye, but no fun to refinish, it loves to drink in
lacquer.
I will talk to DK about a color for the tint.
The plating is here so I will be building the rim assembly soon
Mission brown with a tad of Vintage Maple for the color
Tint coats complete, ready for clear
Resonator first coat sealer , Rim tinted
All the snowflakes must be individually cleaned of the dark finish
Stripping the neck
Sweat stains are deep on both sides and the center, I will see what
I can remove by bleaching and light sanding,
I have it looking more like figured grain now, I will stop here
and let the tint take over
Same over here
Cleaning the snowflakes
Showing how brown the tint is
on the test stick versus the actual maple
The neck is a highly yellowed
maple by nature while the resonator is a reddish burl.
Using the same cup of color
tint on both pieces you still see a contrast, that is the nature of
the woods, not the tints.
All taking on clear Mohawk
In between coats after block sanding you can see where the birdseye
takes in more finish than the hardwood and these, I drop fill with lacquer
on the deep ones and eventually you will catch up to it.
Birdseye is the most labor intensive of all the wood due to sporadic
porosity from the nature of the wood itself
The plating from NASHVILLE
PLATING SERVICE is excellent once again, Mr. Ron Satterfield is very
conscientious when it comes to old metal and the proper prep work thereof.
Many a plater I've used in the
past could take a lesson or three from Ron.
And these Roaring 20s banjos
put Ron out of his comfort zone (GIBSON'S!) just a a bit but he came thru
with shining colors (pun intended)
Thank you Ron, for adding
your work to this project.
Neck ready to level frets and polish
Only the crowning pic came thru...sorry
Buffing the finish
Board sealed and polished, all waxed up and ready to install
A note on MOP buttons..
The center one is one I have began to buff on my wheel.
There is alot of old sweat and dead MOP on the surface of them that
when removed, makes them as new, appearance wise
And when placed on the finest vintage Engraved Grover Deluxe 2 band
4:1 tuner with the NPS
plating ........then you have it as it was in its Glory Day
That is what I am talking about!
When installing the mute actuating arm...... once again the tip
snaps off of one of them....
They are weak from age and have been actuated many times and this
just occurs where the 2 nuts jam it to the actuator lever.
I have maybe 10 in a drawer that this one would have lived in but,
Ill be sending it as the original and I quick fabbed one so the mute could
actuate and this banjo could have its original but broken piece.
It is just plain soft brass.
Ready to continue forth with the setup
Another small glitch is that the resonator attaching lugs came loose
with no pressure at all, the solder was weak and maybe the plating process
weakened it even more, I'm not sure, but the only one that was strong
is the one I resoldered before it left for plating, that is the shiny one
which I warmed up to remove.
I will now have to drill the rim for threaded collars and make the
bolts shorter.
Any attempt to resolder now will affect the
plating so wh have to change gears.
Collars embedded into rim
Bolts shortened with nylon washer
Strung up on GHS 030-024-014-010
Original Bacon Bridge gives ample downforce, good action with bright
perky tone
I have enjoyed working on such a nice example
and once again I thank Derek for the opportunity to work with him and I
will get to see him in AZ and deliver it in person which is extra nice.
It will be a nice addition to his Banjoworld!
I will let it setttle in and do final adjustments
.
Thanks for watching,
Vinnie
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