(Style D)



Banjo came partially disassembled

Fingerboard paintings VGC


Planet tuners, MOP Buttons
 Peghead reverse celluloid VGC

Resonator celluloid VGC, very minor delam's

RIM VG some cracking in bottom veneer that will be sealed

Worn Waverly Tailpiece, original gold plate

We do have an Epiphone original that can go in with plating

Probably something inside like electronics did this rash

Good celluloid and nice straight neck, thank you Epi, for steel rods.

Planets with MOPS in VGC

The main hardware is plain, non engraved and never plated or was totally stripped way in the past, because patina is old
Hooksets, thumbscrews, ,tuners, inside parts, all were plated.
You never know what went on  but we love speculation seasoned with conjecture and a dash of fact!


One of the screws snapped while installing the trim ring and must be extracted then doweled
This stuff happens daily, you just curse and reverse!

That's the culprit above
Special extractors speed the process

Doweled and ready to redrill

The new gold is nice and bright, proper for an Epiphone
Slight hint of copper, not pinkish or orange, just right

Thanks to Ron Satterfield at NASHVILLE PLATING SERVICE
 for some great buffing before the plating.
This is so important in the process
MOP buttons polished
I decided a Renaissance head would add to the look  and I prefer the tone.
They were on backorder on my trial setup and came in just in the nick of time

Now when the neck gets its final coats we will set her up


As usual, the celluloid's are shrunken back and the slots are WIDE
They must be sealed into the board.
Cleaning debris

I always clean, polish and  wax the board because the glue can bleed over at times and it doesn't stick as bad if you protect with wax
You just cant push it down into the slots, a little talc powder does the trick, them blow out the slots when you are done waxing
This way all the board cleaning and such is done before frets are in the way

All glued in, Ill remove the tiny excesses now and  level/ polish buff the wires

Frets complete, ready to strip the little finish it has left on it

Back to clean Holly on the top part
Now to clean all the carvings out and respray

Ready to spray both necks


I am wicking in water thin cyano into all of the cracks in the laminates on the back and sides
There is no repair that can be effected that would not ruin vintage celluloid's so all I can do is stabilize it from further shrinkage
It will flow into many areas that cannot be reached with traditional glues

The bottom edge was  clamped and sealed and is now buffed to high shine again

Wet sanding the resonator back with 1200 wet before buffing

All sealed and buffed, with 2 coats Renaissance wax

Inside sanded a bit, then a fresh coat of black
I will give it a coat of clear and  some new felt ,that will complete the resonator repair
All will be ready when plating returns this week

Adding more clear and touching up a couple of spots on the binding that where it has cracks


Well try as I may, I was was not able to save the old binding.
What transpired is not uncommon, the celluloid was just not able to take the solvents in the lacquer and reacted in a way that finished it off.
It looked ok on the surface but microscopic crazing was up and down the length.
Sometimes it will not craze but not this time.
Its brittle and thin, and old, such is life.
I am going slow because I have already fretted and sealed so the backside is tight against the fingerboard.
The positive side is I can see places where the fingerboard could use some more sealing to the neck, that cannot be seen until binding is off.
I will clean the lands and install new binding
Reversals are never fun but I prefer to show it so that others see this is no exact science, its how you react, to the reaction.
Curse. then reverse is my way.

Couple that, with gluing yourself to the new binding.
When it rains it pours.
 Anyone that uses hi speed cyano knows that body oil is the fastest accelerant.
1 second...and your done, didn't know the bottle had leaked on me
You think HAHA, but this is no fun to get loose from.
Happens about once in 6 months.
Pull it off, leave all the skin and worse
Cotton swab and acetone, slowly, 30 minutes.

New binding both sides, so they match
Ready for marker dots

Ready for final (I hope) finish

Taping back off for spray work
All celluloid's must be protected
New binding is not affected by finish so no worries


Now that the binding is over and done and final finish added, I've set it up on te Oettinger and it has a problem being too close to armrest and wants to push the strings too far over on the fingerboard.

Its touching and thats not good
We have decided to put what goes on it originally
A Grover 4 hump ,

thats just back from the plater and...I thought I would take a GAMBLE and install it tonight but... This Dansant continues to throw curves at me.

... I noticed the A string and G string tuner starting to bind up when I was loosening
This means the plating solution dried out the grease even more than it was and that the gears must get some lube into them.

Penetrant is all that you can get into these tightly sealed housings, here is my method.

Blow torch to get the oil hot and thin, and the housings expanded and I can see the oil bubbling into them

All turning much better, new Tailpiece doing the right job.
This one has been a battle but the outcome looks good and sounds good.
They all cannot be easy, but you cannot surrender in mid stream when the going gets rough.

Thanks for watching