By 1933 Dobro moved the screws positioning to
Luthiers by opening a coverplate without removing the
Double bound body
Dual Screen style
Notice it is 21 fret, and marked in an old way after 12
16 - 18 and 20
Celluloid overlay long gone
I can recreate this in some manner and try to obtain a decal from Dobro
Home made top plate, no spider and cone
The Tenors are regular guitar sized bodies with Mandolin sized resonator parts so to understand its coverplate, one must go to the Dobro Resonator Mandolins for that pattern, this threw me off for a few minutes.
To me the pic below leaves little doubt as to is claim of it being an actual Dobro brand Tenor Guitar
ARRIVAL - REPAIRS
Removing the non original friction tuners.
I will go back with period Grover 2:1 geared tuners like it originally had on it.
The only designation is a "J" and no number in the proper area
Mike Cass says this designates"Canada Export" and the USA version would have a number after the letter.
All is tight on the inside
I will need all of the "Guts" for it
Spider bridge and cone and any hardware it may require
I will work on the body, seal a crack up and go from there while the parts are on order.
After sealing the finish with Tung oil, it was machine buffed and waxed
What is nice is that Dobro had a radiused board, unlike
Board is oiled and polished and frets are polished
All metal polished, body triple waxed
I need a little celluloid for the peghead, Im almost out :)
This is from a 30s Dining table, nice tight color pattern
After trimout, I mounted it back to the peghead and drilled for the Grovers
Filling and dyeing old Grover holes for this pattern hole
Ready to go
Now to wait on parts while I study up on the setup procedure, I'll need some tricks others have already found.
Now when my DOBRO water slide decal comes in, I'll install it and it will look spiffy
Matching Heel cap installed
It will be a really nice little guitar, Im glad I took it on
Also since these are made for high action slide Dobros, the saddle channel is way too tall, I will reduce its topside to a level I feel will work
Final adjustments on spider
Maple bridge with ebony insert created and radiused
A little more load on the cone and I'll put on the coverplate
Since the heat press was ineffectual, I have taken the high road and will add a carbon fiber truss
Fingerboard removal went well
The fingerboard extension is held to the body in a similar way to National
They have 4 screws that are under 4 dot inlays on the fingerboard
But the center inlay doesn't have a screw but you don't know until you look so I replaced it
Truss cavity cut, carbon fiber rod embedded and sealed into
Sanded smooth, ready to install fingerboard
Glued and clamped under heat, 48 hours
Ready to shave heel to get some neck angle, and lower the action
Thats after the cutback, ever so slight but not its good to go on action
Rubbing some Tung in to hide the edge
That's alot better, now it is slick and low with the radius fingerboard actually working
4/32, and easy to go higher now if wanted but it plays great here too.
Now I will get it into the hands of a man
get some recordings of it playing in all styles
This is much sweeter in tone than any metal body resonator and better than my old wooden bodied national tenor.
Thanks for looking,Vinnie
YOUTUBE of this instrument