Full restoration




The heel crack is stable, I will dress it up and put a vertical dowel in it for insurance.
You can be sure someone that doesn't know the neck adjuster procedure popped it.

The holes in the side are the same on both sides, some device must have been attached to it, maybe it was on a wall display...I will hide it all

The tail of the backstrap is loose, and has a piece of its top veneer missing, I will add some and feather it in

The neck warp is severe and it will have to be trussed, I will do carbon fiber, non adjustable

If others have never seen a Weymann tuner tool, this is it.

The head is so tight  on the tone ring in the tension hoop that it is still at around 90 percent tension, you could play on it.
I'll have to knock it loose with a wooden mallet.

I'll start by getting the fingerboard off

I am slowly wetting the hide glue with Alcohol to break it down and working a thin knife down the length, taking my time

A nice removal (for a change)

Peghead overlay cracked a bit but I saved it in on piece
You cannot level a neck with it still on

And now to remove 80 yrs of buckle rash..., this was a well loved and well played banjo, it shows all over

Rim ready for stain

Renaissance head courtesy of www.bedfordbanjoshop.com

Adding the 1/4 round bar stock for truss

Pressing after gluing into place

Second lay-up, fingerboard install

Ready to partially level
These Weymann inlay is much too thin to level deeply, some divots must remain in the board


Oiled once for now

Re-install of the overlay, pegs to center it while curing

All scraped back to profile, ready for sealer

Backstrap dyed and one coat sealer, ready for tint

Tint added, all marquetry will be cleaned of dyes and tints
Will fade the heel and a little at the peghead

First coat of clear over the tint
I will add two and then stop to fret it before going further

Repaired a few cracks, stripped the old varnish and 2 coats on inside of resonator


Flange has been very worrisome
The new brackets someone made are made right, but from non ferrous aluminum and the solders I have tried have not worked well so far
I have a full day on just this flange, making jigs to solder the brackets and cleaning, prepping on each effort
They need to be brass for sure
I have just took it all back off, it seems each time I get close I break another off.
It's part of the job I do not like!
The flange is so thin too much heat it will be ruined so its taxing my mind.
Each bracket must be at an angle to meet the flange and the wall, and the screw points. all 8 of them

I made a jig to help hold the brackets and have one side complete

Both complete and not bad, no plating was damaged
I locked all of the screws and brackets with cyano to help them stay in place during the trip


All installed and leveled, recrowned, now some end dressing

3 oilings, luster has returned to the Pearwood


Torsion bar adjusted to full heel contact
Banjo is designed in a way it cannot utilize anything higher than a 1/2 bridge for medium to low action.

Head furnished by www.bedfordbanjoshop.com
Strings,... compliments of "The Dawg"
Nut slots cut, now for final setup

OK the flange is soldered for the 20th time and is holding

I'm pointing on how close the flange is to the rim, that is the best  I could do and it will come on and off OK
Just DO NOT wiggle the flange at all, and it may stay soldered.
The aluminum brackets do not like new lead free solder and are too thin for a hotter torch and Silver Solder.
If I ever get a better flange I will send it to Karl and ask that the other be destroyed!

I will search for a wooden armrest  and tailpiece cover and make sure Karl gets it if I find one.



A very challenging Weymann but it has power to spare, quite a bold noise it is making.
On Each Instrument no matter what else you may wish to do,....There has to be a stopping point and I feel have reached it.
 The banjo plays good and looks good and should give good service after Karl does his personal tweaks as all players should.
Now for a safe passage, we hope!