21 Fret Tenor
Maple neck-Maple fingerboard

Body has been stripped and re-plated
Neck was re-fretted with large wire and painted black
Excessive relief in neck from 5 to the nut
Remove frets and fingerboard flatten neck, add carbon rods


Fret removal
Had to use heat, they were installed with black epoxy
Fingerboard will require full slot rebuild or new board, will decide later

Paint on neck just showed itself as an enamel
Low stick tape peeled it right off
Does not matter, it will be refinished anyway

Now I know why it was so quiet.
That fur has to go!

I'm guessing with low tension on tailpiece due to poor neck angle, con was not bearing on body and buzzes were many.
Brace pads are in good shape as is dowel

They are very crude in design, but they function.

When you pull a neck on a National and doe not know there are screws under the last fret markers...

... you will have anguish and despair, and will yank on the neck until you break something.
Unless you feel inside and feel the anchor stops and the light bulb goes on in your head.
Voice of experience, heed it.

I lost the Fuzz....sounds like my Tenn to unscrew the inside, pull the pads and neck

Here are the pads that anchor the screws, they sit under the body like this and the screws feed into the nuts
 The are made and marked for the side they go on.

Where the paint pulled, they used a dye that was not compatible with the enamel

I can pull it off in strips bare handed

An exc view of the lack of anchor bonding, it was hanging on like a blanket.

Ok, I'll razor off the rest

Body cleaned up

Shot some sealer, will do fade at peg head so I do not lose the sticker.
I should be able to cross link lacquer to that enamel.
If not, I'll have to order a National Sticker

Laid it on my flat bar sander,  its high on the top corner and bottom  extension
Not usually high on a Nat'l on the bottom, they are screwed to the body.

Ok, its already loose here, so moving on with board removal

Home iron is fine for this- no steam

Coming up nicely, some sticky spots

Clean removal

Maple fingerboard, maple neck, no laminate, no truss
Stayed pretty dam straight all those years with just that going for it.
Straight grained maple is the clear winner here.
You can see the only two place it was really still adhered.
I love the smell of burnt hide glue, ..who wants BBQ?

On the 21 fret boards, there is always room for a 22 wire.
 Sometimes I add it just so the guys that play plectrum have it if they want to tune it CGBD
Makes a nice short scale plectrum that way.

Dowel is solid, no looseness there
Getting all the old finish out, heat gun bubbles off that enamel
I can change the neck angle a bit here too.

Getting the depth for the truss

Ready to bed in

Sealed and leveled

Cleaning the board for re-install

Ready for install

Checking the fit

Holes all aligned

I will pin the board on both ends before glue, to keep it centered
1/16" drill outs

Changed to wood dowel, glue applied

I will snip them off now, and clamp

Out of the clamps. I will level the board slightly after new bindings are on
Going as wide as I can, its a slim neck and I can gain a little width by the nut this way.

Using plastic binding, it files much eadier than it sands.

You only go until you touch the wood and leave as much thickness at the top as you can.

All profiled and marker dots installed

It is very tight here, I believe this may have been the case forever, and what made the lift at the end of the fingerboard.
Not an easy place to saw out a .030" after installing the board. Oh well!

I will use my MOP saw, new blade, go slow

That is a nice even slice, proud that went so well.

Easy fit now, holes all are in alignment

2 coats black lacquer, 2 coats clear

All bindings cleaned, MOP dots cleaned, now one more coat on the fingerboard before fret work

Going with Stew Mac 147 medium wire
I will seal it all in with #20 Stew Mac

End trim- Level -crown- polish, end dressing occurs now

After polishing, wool on the board to make it less glossy

Neck angle is achieved, tight to the body, and extension lift is now correct.

Just a look to see how its going.
I will shoot 4 more coats of clear, cure, wet sand and buff, then re-assemble


Many National's are broken in this manner
It is a stamped tailpiece and fatigue can happen in the break over point.
When it is on and under tension, that gap is much wider and will eventually break apart.

I have scuffed the affected area, and will Flux/Solder in a brass "L" brace
It cannot be big, or it will push off the body.

Starting the soldering

Now to fill in this last hole

Setup without the covert, so I can test the tailpiece, so far so good, then cut the nut/saddle slots, and intonate the cone with a slight slant of the "Biscuit"

SETUP/Final pics

Guitar has nice clear tone, no buzzing, good action, ready to go.

Heel tight to body now, all contact points tight.

Thanks for watching