21 Fret Tenor
Maple neck-Maple fingerboard
Body has been stripped and re-plated
Neck was re-fretted with large wire and painted black
Excessive relief in neck from 5 to the nut
Remove frets and fingerboard flatten neck, add carbon rods
Had to use heat, they were installed with black epoxy
Fingerboard will require full slot rebuild or new board, will
Paint on neck just showed itself as an enamel
Low stick tape peeled it right off
Does not matter, it will be refinished anyway
Now I know why it was so quiet.
That fur has to go!
I'm guessing with low tension on tailpiece due to poor neck
angle, con was not bearing on body and buzzes were many.
Brace pads are in good shape as is dowel
They are very crude in design, but they function.
When you pull a neck on a National and doe not know there are
screws under the last fret markers...
... you will have anguish and despair, and will yank on the
neck until you break something.
Unless you feel inside and feel the anchor stops and the light
bulb goes on in your head.
Voice of experience, heed it.
I lost the Fuzz....sounds like my Tenn life....now to unscrew
the inside, pull the pads and neck
Here are the pads that anchor the screws, they sit under the
body like this and the screws feed into the nuts
The are made and marked for the side they go on.
Where the paint pulled, they used a dye that was not
compatible with the enamel
I can pull it off in strips bare handed
An exc view of the lack of anchor bonding, it was hanging on
like a blanket.
Ok, I'll razor off the rest
Body cleaned up
Shot some sealer, will do fade at peg head so I do not lose
I should be able to cross link lacquer to that enamel.
If not, I'll have to order a National Sticker
Laid it on my flat bar sander, its high on the top
corner and bottom extension
Not usually high on a Nat'l on the bottom, they are screwed to
Ok, its already loose here, so moving on with board removal
Home iron is fine for this- no steam
Coming up nicely, some sticky spots
Maple fingerboard, maple neck, no laminate, no truss
Stayed pretty dam straight all those years with just that
going for it.
Straight grained maple is the clear winner here.
You can see the only two place it was really still adhered.
I love the smell of burnt hide glue, ..who wants BBQ?
On the 21 fret boards, there is always room for a 22 wire.
Sometimes I add it just so the guys that play plectrum
have it if they want to tune it CGBD
Makes a nice short scale plectrum that way.
Dowel is solid, no looseness there
Getting all the old finish out, heat gun bubbles off that
I can change the neck angle a bit here too.
Getting the depth for the truss
Ready to bed in
Sealed and leveled
Cleaning the board for re-install
Ready for install
Checking the fit
Holes all aligned
I will pin the board on both ends before glue, to keep it
1/16" drill outs
Changed to wood dowel, glue applied
I will snip them off now, and clamp
Out of the clamps. I will level the board slightly after new
bindings are on
Going as wide as I can, its a slim neck and I can gain a
little width by the nut this way.
Using plastic binding, it files much eadier than it sands.
You only go until you touch the wood and leave as much
thickness at the top as you can.
All profiled and marker dots installed
It is very tight here, I believe this may have been the case
forever, and what made the lift at the end of the fingerboard.
Not an easy place to saw out a .030" after installing the
board. Oh well!
I will use my MOP saw, new blade, go slow
That is a nice even slice, proud that went so well.
Easy fit now, holes all are in alignment
2 coats black lacquer, 2 coats clear
All bindings cleaned, MOP dots cleaned, now one more coat on
the fingerboard before fret work
Going with Stew Mac 147 medium wire
I will seal it all in with #20 Stew Mac
End trim- Level -crown- polish, end dressing occurs now
After polishing, wool on the board to make it less glossy
Neck angle is achieved, tight to the body, and extension lift
is now correct.
Just a look to see how its going.
I will shoot 4 more coats of clear, cure, wet sand and buff,
Many National's are broken in this manner
It is a stamped tailpiece and fatigue can happen in the break
When it is on and under tension, that gap is much wider and
will eventually break apart.
I have scuffed the affected area, and will Flux/Solder in a
brass "L" brace
It cannot be big, or it will push off the body.
Starting the soldering
Now to fill in this last hole
Setup without the covert, so I can test the tailpiece, so far
so good, then cut the nut/saddle slots, and intonate the cone
with a slight slant of the "Biscuit"
Guitar has nice clear tone, no buzzing, good action, ready to
Heel tight to body now, all contact points tight.
Thanks for watching