Install pickup, re-fret, repair as needed to
Fit bridge to body
Installing a Period Charlie
I have decided on my game plan so will do a little tonight
Index pin holding the center line, drilling my secondary
Spruce plugs on the old side holes
Will tint them a bit when I get to that point
3 pins holding as well as the tape
Scribing a line around the periphery
I can finish tracing now that I have the basic outline
Then I will make the cut.
First I will drill a 1 " pilot with my Forstner bit
No turning back now!
That is one thick top.
I see now why you can cut the bracing and not worry about
deflection in the belly.
Now I will drill out all around the end first to relieve
the stress on the piece I will cut out first
I'll use a hacksaw blade and no frame, to get a straight
smooth cut thru the braces
1/2 cut out, Ill rasp the end a bit and make the second
The drill outs ...
That went well, no chip outs and I can bring the periphery
out to the exact size next.
A couple good pieces to save in case there is ever a need
for them on this axe, I will stash them in the case.
OK...here is what we are
It's not the most beautiful cutout for sure, they could
have designed the base a little smaller and then the deco plate
would have had a perfect look.
You need only just enough for the body to go in.
If it will go in.......it will adjust.
Oh well......that's my "benchmark" :):)
So after 3 hours of slowly reaming to get the best
I'd say that's book matched.
A dab of Shellac to make the cut look "older"
Plugging all the holes with maple plugs
Then just a dab of Shellac over them
Adding the yellow amber tint over the repaired areas.
The big divot in neck is filled, I'm working on adding a little
clear over the repair only.
I will block sand that spot and buff when I get the clear coats
More added plugs, there are plenty!
Getting ready to fret, fixing all the loose bindings first
I'm pinching while the glue sets
The frets are almost leveled flat, and the board is tired so I
must protect the slots from chip outs with tape as I pull the
You can see on the ends of the wires, there is nothing left
Some I could barely get out there was so little left.
What has happened is it was radius leveled at the wrong
radius, will explain later.
You can see how ugly the slots are, that is from playing sweat
and whatever, all will be sealed, and re slotted for modern wire
All of which has to be done without removing the side bindings
which would crystallize and be ruined if I tried.
I will repair what I can on it, you can see a big dent and
cracks in the board where it took a hit long ago, I will remedy
that as best I can.
You can also see on the other side a piece of binding that's
been replaced and only sort of matches.
It's a Warhorse, and has all the battle scars to make it really
cool to me
I like instruments that are played and not looked at.
All out and sealing the slot edges
The reason the frets are so bad on the ends is that the
original board should be 14" radii, and this one is
between 11 and 13" at the bottom and 10 to 11" at the top so
its a compound radius.
The wires were leveled at either 7.5 or 9" and the tighter
radius makes for cutting more off the sides of the wire.
If you compound radius, you must do the board and then the
frets in the same radii.
I will correct the board to a standard 14"-12" compound
You can check online about compound radius if you are not
familiar with the term.
Doing the compound radius
You can see all the low spots and divots.
I will fill the deep ones
#20 Cyano for that job, leveling each time until I get them
All leveled, filled and fingerboard blackened with Fiebig's
Cleaning up the binding top
Those divots can
be seen but not felt
Cleaning and deepening slots
Precut for Gibson and pre-bent
Pressing with "Jaws" with 12" radius caul
Trimming ends and sealing with cyano as I go
OK, on down the board as far as I can go with "Jaws"
I'm using the Stew Mac fret cleaning saw to rake
out as far as I can so these can be hammered in properly
without too much shock back
I'm on an extension that is
diving downwards so I have to watch in my leveling to
take them down less than those above it
Really, this went well, I'm only on a fine paper with my
radius blocks and am already "Dusting" properly
The re-radius on the fingerboard itself I can tell helped
this aspect a lot.
Its not like I'm some Sage Archtop guitar
repairman......lets keep it real, its nice to have a bit
of luck on such things!
Re-crowning file, and then I will dress the ends and
polish them all back nicely
All sealed into the board, ready to jig up to profile the
That is with pickup "Maxed" upwards,
it cannot come higher and I feel the thick top in that
area impedes it.
Side pulled in glued and clamped, still a tiny bulge but its
Scraped to profile
All small holes plugged
repair - Sidewall
This is a procedure I used all the time when I had my fiberglass
When there is a hole in the side of a boat that is not easy to
get to from the inside, we make a backer plate that can be bent
and fit into the hole with a pull wire in it.
It has to be small enough to get into the hole when it is slight
Also in this case it needs to be thin so that the total
thickness is not more than normal so the jack plug can still be
The plate is a little larger than the hole and will give some
strength to keep the jack plug snug.
After making the hole and bending the wire, I glue a piece over
it to keep it from pulling thru when I apply pressure with glue
Now to fold and insert
Glue is all around the periphery
Wire snipped off after curing
Tracing a pattern for the main plug
After a lot of fitting, its in and sanded to profile
I got some grain matching but it will never be pretty
I will try a little acrylic paint to mask over the repair
A little amber tint added
Pickup hole drilled in the old plugged hole
I will get the wiring in and then I will paint a little more on
the new repair
Installing pickup bracket
Grounding the unit under the tailpiece
Mixing some Ocher and some yellow to get what I can, from
what I have
It did do a fair job of masking the lines and repairs, Ill
shoot a tad of clear over it when it dries.
A couple of coats of tint wash and clear, that's not too
outside strings with enough pressure to stay in the
slots.... to use as a guide but still move bridge to and
You only go 1"... that is the area
the base will set to be intonated, any other spot will
You can see "High in the middle
You can see the bass side touching well and the treble
side "Dusting at the tip
That String is less pressure so it means "I'm there"
Lets get some strings on it at tension
First I will yellow this up a bit, peeling the
OK Strings on
I splotched the tint on purpose since this already has
that sort of patina
Nice flat profile, at half tension so we are good here
Electrical "Tap test" while hooked to amp...........OK
Strung to pitch and played for awhile thru my amp, sounds nice
Now to have another test run on it when Martyn can get by here.
We did some Truss adjustments, more fret tweaking, working to
get it at a lower action .
And now with the plug re-positioning and pickup adjustment we
are closer to a better player.
Thanks for watching,