Noel Induni's Stromberg Marimba
This Marimba has several
issues to be dealt found on the initial inspection.
Missing Headstock Inlay
Minor Rim delaminations under
the metal rim sheath
Worn engraving and missing filler
in fingerboard inlays
Minor oxidation on hardware flange,
hoop and sheath
Tension hooks need replate or
Cuppo- phone tone chamber and
arch top ring in good condition.
Rim work Gluing complete
Flange removed for polishing
Under the flange I found some
delaminations on the flange mounting surface along with some detritus from
sweat and other moisture that needed addressing.
Head Stock and Inlay Work
Then clean out the cavity, preferably
with a carbide tip tool for a clean cut.
Using the old inlay for a template, scribe
around it and set it in the jig for cutting.
(Darkened in for your benefit)
Then it's time to cut it out using care and
the proper tools
This is still very tedious work and a time
to be concentrating on the task at hand.
And the finished cutouts.
Then sand all the burrs and smooth the edges
with a fine sandpaper ,checking the contour and depth.
If it doesn't seat properly now is the time
to relieve the cavity a little or contour the inlay or both.
You do not hurry these stages, as it will
cause grief later on.
Setting the new inlays
Set the inlays into the filler, pressing down
gently but firmly, squeezing out the excess epoxy
Next lightly scrape off the excess and wait
for it to begin to set.
All epoxies and adhesives in general shrink
when catalyzation occurs and will leave a small indentation around the
(Contrasted to make visible)
Fretted and ready to go
Back from engraver
Noel had an engraver who was able to do
a wonderful job by hand to closely replicate the original script.
Then Janet blacked it in
As we draw closer to the "Finish Line"
the reapplication of Lacquer begins with several light coats to allow the
bare wood to seal off.
Then heavier coats are applied, lightly sanding
each coat with a 400# paper.
I like to lay on 8-10 coats of Lacquer
to ensure the protection of the wood.
I use only the highest grade Nitrocellulose
Lacquers,that are instrument grade.
I use three basic polishing compounds
and one swirl remover.
I like to do most things by hand and if you
are not experienced in machine polishing lacquers, I suggest the hand polishing
Looking at polished pieces
Re-tint Rim and dowelstick
This operation is being done at this time for two
I reassembled the rim for testing before I tinted
it so as to not damage the finish on the Diss-Reassembly process.
The dowel stick was my retention to hold the neck
during tinting so now I will flip it around and do the dowel
First all old finish is to be removed from rim and
I use a scraper to take the bulk off with then 80# paper for the rest.
Then I begin to seal the bare wood to prepare it
for the tinted lacquer.
I'll use some leftover lacquer for this stage as
it has the same pigment in it.
The following coats will be much darker.
Here is the rim reassembled with lacquer work completed
and matching the rest of the color scheme.
And fully assembled with new tailpiece,strings
Alongside of its younger Marimba brother
Thanks for watching,